If your idea of barbecue is simple, inexpensive heaps of smoked meat, look elsewhere. Owner and pit master Andrew Darneille—formerly of the late Georgetown restaurant Old Glory—hit barbecue competitions for years before opening his Clarendon spot. He doesn’t skimp on ingredients or ambition. Duroc pork belly, prime brisket, and steakhouse-level rib eye make their way into gas-assisted smokers with six varieties of wood. Dinner and brunch menus go well beyond classics—nibble on house-smoked salmon/goat-cheese crostini or a grilled Caesar before digging into crabcakes or a campfire-like s’mores dessert. That’s not to say piles of meat such as tender pulled chicken aren’t satisfying—you’re just paying for quality over quantity.